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About Debbie

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    Owned by Fraggle & Co
  • Birthday 03/13/1970

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    Near Southampton

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  1. Fur fungus is the common, if somewhat erroneous, term used by many breeders for ringworm. Chinchillas are highly susceptible to ringworm, a fungal infection of the skin and fur, due to their thick pelts which absorb ambient humidity, thus providing an ideal growing environment for ringworm spores to flourish. There is currently an epidemic sweeping through many UK “herds” at present. There are various different strains of ringworm, tinea canis being the most likely culprit. Symptoms are characterised by loss of fur in patches, especially around the eyes, nose and ears. The underlying skin
  2. This is another problem that is quite common. Severe cases will need veterinary treatment, but mild cases are usually treatable by the owner. Main Symptoms In mild cases the owner will only see softer droppings than usual, often found squashed flat around the cage. More severe cases will manifest themselves as very runny droppings, resembling cowpats, or smelly, liquid watery droppings. Enteritic conditions may be characterised by the presence of mucous. Possible Causes Many causes. In mild cases, often too many treats are to blame. Lack of fibre in the diet (possibly dental-relate
  3. Constipation in my opinion should be regarded as a condition that does require prompt treatment. Main Symptoms are: Small, dry, scant droppings. Thin, curved droppings. Few droppings or no droppings at all. Lethargy. Lack of appetite. Abdominal pain. Possible Causes Dental problems that mean the chin is not eating enough fibre. Unsuitable diet lacking in fibre. Illness. Bloat. General treatment should begin immediately. But in acute cases veterinary advice is recommended (as always). For mild cases a little syrup of figs can be given. 1ml twice a day - and an improvem
  4. You will find some fairly detailed information on breeding chinchillas on this link: http://www.azure-chinchillas.co.uk/pages/b...chinchillas.php
  5. Fur chewing is a vice that affects a small percentage of chinchillas. Chinchillas can do it to themselves - and/or other chins sharing the same cage. They chew the top layer off the fur - leaving the undercoat exposed and giving an untidy appearance It has many suspected causes ................ Stress Boredom Dietary Genetic Hormonal There are a few old records stating that one theory was that chins that fur-chewed consistantly were deficient in Arachidonic essential fatty acid. This is mainly found in animal-based sources - so ranchers would hang bacon rind in the cages for the chin
  6. Fits/convulsions are relatively common in chinchillas. Although no one is entirely certain why. Symptoms can be ...... loss of coordination rigidity unresponsiveness unable to move normally flattening of ears and a stiff posture flattening of the body twitching and head-tilt stretching head backwards arching of the back There are many possible causes ...... hypo or hyper glyceamia (especially in chins less than a year old) hypo or hyper calceamia (also seen in younger chins) diabetes stress/excitement (AKA feeding fits) thiamine deficiency (rare) genetic/hereditary causes
  7. Just adding a section on working out nutritional ratios - as this links in with the calcium topic ........ Chinchillas require calcium to phosphorous in the ratio of around 2:1 respectively (or at least 1:1) to ensure healthy skeletal and dental development (in conjunction with vitamins A, C and D) - as discussed!! It is very likely that chinchillas can tolerate calcium ratios well in excess of the suggested 2:1, but more importantly, it is wise to ensure that the chinchilla is NOT eating a diet that has an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio, as this (over time) may result in a decrease in bo
  8. Chinchillas will happily exercise on a wheel, if given the chance to do so, but care must be taken to ensure that a suitable wheel is used. Extra-large wheels, manufactured for rats are not suitable. Some years ago, chinchilla wheels were only available in the USA, but they are now getting much easier to get hold of in the UK. Chinchilla wheels need to be at least 14" in diameter, have fully enclosed bearings, and be of solid construction (not runged) to protect tails and toes from getting trapped. The "Flying Saucer Wheel" and the "Leo Braun Wheel" (both manufactured specifically for
  9. There is very little space between the female's urethal cone and her anus. Whereas with the male chinchilla, the gap between the penis and anus is much more pronounced, even as kits. **awaiting undignified photos of digruntled chins **
  10. Some of the below colours are not commonly seen in the UK, but are worthy of mention. Wilson White (AKA Silver, Mosaic) Incomplete Dominant, Lethal Factor, Heterozygous Only Tower Beige (heterozygous or homozygous) Gunning Black (Black Velvet) Lethal Factor, Heterozygous Only Tasco Black French Blue Busse Ebony Wellman Beige Recessive Sullivan Beige Recessive (red eyes) Albino Charcoal Sakrison (Curly Brown Charcoal) Stone White (prone to opthalmia) Larsen Sapphire Lester Black Treadwell Black Young Lavender-Brown Sullivan Violet Deutsche Violet Many more mut
  11. Chinchillas are very suseptable to shock. Many pet chins die from delayed shock, even when the actual injuries may be relatively minor. Symptoms of shock may include the chinchilla appearing listless, withdrawn, sleepy and lethargic. Paws and ears may feel cold to the touch. There will almost always be a total lack of appetite and the digestion may shut-down, so few (if any) droppings will be observed. It is imperative that shock is treated IMMEDIATELY!! Phone the vet for advice - but do commence basic treatment yourself, as prompt care is essential. Warmth is paramount, keep the affect
  12. What Age to Breed? This mainly depends on how soon your bloodlines mature, as some mature far later than others. I tend to initially start introducing potential breeding mates at around the age of about 8 months old, no younger. Chinchillas usually become capable of reproduction from the age of around 4 to 6 months, depending on the individual, of course. But breeding from such young animals may result in complications, so is not recommended. I have even heard reports of chinchillas as young as 8 weeks managing to breed, but this is exceptionally rare, but still serves as a reminder to s
  13. All wood should be taken from areas that have not been sprayed with chemicals. They should also be away from busy roads where car-exhausts won't have affected them. Thoroughly wash (in hot salted water) and allow to fully dry before giving it to the chins. If necessary, dry the wood in a warm oven. If your chin is not used to eating/chewing wood - give a tiny amount at first - and gradually increase it over a period of weeks. Be aware that some woods turn a chinchillas pee bright orange. This is nothing to worry about. The following are all regarded as safe - but if in doubt - don't f
  14. Showing Chinchillas When a chinchilla is being judged at a show - the judges consider several main points - clarity, density, condition and conformation. Conformation - a show chin should be big and "blocky" in shape - and not "necky" (weak-necked) or "wedgy" (narrow at the shoulders). Clarity - the colour should always be a "clear" blue and not tinged or off-colour. Regardless of the colour, be it brown velvet, pink/white, ebony or pastel there should always be a blue "aura" to the colour. Any white (including the under-belly) should always be a persil-white and not yellowish or off-white
  15. Healthy Treats: Apple Tree & Hawthorn Twigs/Branches - should be cleaned in warm water. Once cleaned, the bark should be left on. You can give a twig or two daily, but branches will last a little longer. Chinchillas love to strip off and eat the bark, which provides an excellent fibrous treat that is good for the teeth. It closely resembles their natural diet too. Willow and hazel and other kinds of fruit tree wood (as long as the fruit DOES NOT contain stones) may also be given instead of apple wood. Hawthorn is relished too. Alfalfa Hay - May be given once or twice a week. Hig
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